Test fitting the first bottom plank.
2/6/21 – Waiting for the next video from Offcenter Harbor.
2/9/21 – Decided to move ahead without waiting for the videos. A couple of other builders have moved on as well, so I will have some company. Starting on drilling the holes in the bottom planks today.
2/9/21 1:00 pm Finished drilling pilot holes in bottom planks and secured with 3/4″ #10 Silicon Bronze screws on the keel and 1″ #10 screws on the bow and transom.
Note: OCH recommend 5/8″ #8 screws on the keel and 7/8″ #8 screws on the bow and transom. Of course, I didn’t see the post until after I finished and I see why they recommended the smaller screws. I have a few screws poking through the keel on the inside. That will require some grinding when I turn the boat over.
Ready for epoxy.
2/10/21 – Epoxied bottom planks in place. Ready to start on the Chine Planks. Put dropcloth under entire boat to catch epoxy squeeze-out or drips.
2/12/21 – Beveling the bottom planks to fit the chine planks. I started off using my bench plane on the bevel and then decided it would go faster with my electric planer. However, after trying it for awhile I decided it might be a little too fast. 🙂 I then sharpened my bench plane and it was actually faster than the electric planer and with more control.
Here are some photos of the finished beveling.
Ready to glue-up the Chine Planks tomorrow.
2/13/21 – Started fitting the Chine Planks. The first step is to install blocks on the mold in order to hold the planks in place while the epoxy cures.
Next chine plank tomorrow.
3:00 pm – Oops, almost made a big mistake by epoxying a screw in place that might be in the way of beveling for the next plank.
If you notice the angle of the last facet on the stern (in yellow), the bevel will be pretty wide. I just happened to be looking at the last picture while editing the blog and saw my mistake. I immediately went back to the garage and put a clamp on the panel and removed the screw before it was permenantly epoxied in place. I did the same at the bow. When I have beveled the spot for the next plank, I will then add another screw. When I do the other chine plank, I will be more careful in placing the third screw.
2/14/21 – Happy Valentine’s Day ! Taking the day off. Yesterday I received a new batch of screws from Fair Wind Fasteners. See my comments under Fastenings.
2/15/21 – Started fitting the 2nd Chine Plank. I marked the width of the bevel for the next plank so that the screws don’t interfere. I also got to start using my new square head screws. Sooo much easier to work with.
Planed the 1st Chine plank even with the bottom plank.
Finished epoxying 2nd Chine plank. It will need to set up overnight.
2/16/21 – The Chine plank needs to be planed flush with the bottom plank.
The Chine planks are planed even with the bottom plank and I used an epoxy filler to fill all screw holes and joints for final sanding.
Next, final sanding and it will be time to add the Dynel fabric to the bottom.
2/17/21 – Sanded the bottom where I filled all the screw holes and all the epoxy joints. I used the 405 Filleting Blend filler which was a lot harder to sand than the fairing filler. It was a pain to sand smooth.
After sanding, there were still a number of depressions where the filler shrunk in the holes, so it required another round of filling. This time I am using the 410 Microlight Fairing Filler with the 207 hardner.
The fairing filler dries white and will require another sanding tomorrow.
2/18/21 – Snow, sleet and freezing rain to day in Southern Maryland. Too icy to get to the garage.
2/19/21 – Another sanding and then I have to plane the center of the bottom planks to provide a level spot for the outer keel to be attached.
After planing, I have to sand the center of the bottom planks.
Next, I tack a batten along the keel to check fairness. Before applying the Dynel to the bottom planks, it needs to be fair and the centerline must be flat and level for the keel to be attached.
Checking the centerline is level.
Next, I will need to mill the outer keel out of my rough cut Mahogany and make sure it fits properly before applying the Dynel. The keel will be attached after the Dynel.
2/22/21 – Started working on the outer keel. I have to mill it to 1 1/2″ x 7/8″ from a mahogany board that is 1″ x 3 1/2″.
After adding a 1/4″ bevel to the top of the keel, I need to plane the front end of the keel to a tapered edge.
Test fitting the keel. This is a pretty stiff piece of wood that is going to have to do a lot of bending to wrap around the curved bottom.
I will have to do some thinking about how to hold it down while I drill some pilot holes. There is no easy way to clamp it in place.
2/23/21 – I was able to use some strapping to hold down the keel while drilling pilot holes, starting in the stern and working forward.
2:00 pm – I took the time to layout where the centerboard will come through the keel. The plans show it coming out between stations #5 & 6. I used a laser level to project where the stations will be on the bottom of the boat. Then I laid out the centerboard slot on the bottom. The plans show it is offset from the centerline with the board coming out through the edge of the keel, 1/4″ in from the edge.
Now when I remove the keel to put on the Dynel, I will cut out the 1/4″ of the keel. Then when I fit the keel after the Dynel is applied, I will be able to use the notch in the keel to layout where the 3/4″ centerboard slot will go. The centerboard is 1/2″ and the plans show 1/8″ space on each side to give it room to move freely. I can then remove the keel and cut the centerboard hole unencumbered by the keel being in the way. Once the hole is cut, I can permenantly install the keel with epoxy.
Next step will be to remove the keel and apply the Dynel to the bottom.
2/24/21 – Removed the keel and did a once-over on he hull before applying the Dynel. Still had a low spot where the bottom plank was scarfed. Note: Follow the video instructions on scarfing. I did mine before the video came out and it was not as even as it should have been. This is one of the risks of working ahead of the videos, but I want the boat done in time to use it this summer, so waiting for the videos is not an option. Besides, errors can be fixed, it just takes more time.
Added another layer of 410 Microlight fairing filler with 207 hardner. Will sand smooth tomorrow.
Just finished drilling holes for a # 10 screw. I may post on a blog but not sure I have the time just yet. She’s coming along nicely. Also waiting the videos… This will be our tender for our…? Still searching for the next cruiser after selling our 39′ Allied Mistress last year.
Hi Bob. I too have been building Oonagh and I have been frustrated at the rate OCH is releasing the instructional videos. I’d suggest that you look at Geoff Kerrs video series (on OCH) about building a plywood lapstrake Caledonia yawl. He is an excellent teacher and the techniques he demonstrates are readily applicable to Oonagh. They have helped me complete the hull, including planking, gunwales, guards, and filleting the joints. He also shows how to make all the spars.
If we have to wait for OCH to release Kit’s construction, we won’t be in the water until 2022! Good luck, Scott
I have watched the Caledonia Yawl build a couple of times, but have been burned by getting ahead of the videos. I had already finished the keel and scarf joints when #5 & 6 came out and realized I could have done a much better job with some of the tips in the video. I would move ahead with the planking, but I’m not sure if the centerboard slot should be cut in the keel before planking or after it is completed. How did you handle that?
Nice to know I’m in good company. Moving ahead with the chine boards now. Have invented several methods in my mind sans screws to frame but a bit apprehensive to glue up. Any ideas besides using straps around the entire boat or putting more holes in the boat?
Thanks again for the blog – I was given the ‘tough love’ line when asking about screw size… I see no one else with the same question had the pleasure… Photos here are terrific as well. Wish my shop was as clean/organized!
If you look closely at video #2, Kit has put temporary screws in the bottom planks on the outside edge and into the mold. It looks like this is done to hold the bottom plank tight to the mold until the Chine plank is glued in place. But don’t forget to remove them before finishing the bottom or you will never get it off the mold.
I cut the hole after finishing the planking and installing the rub rail on the bottom. I drilled two holes up through the keel adjacent to the rub rail to line up the slot next to the rub rail and not through it. It worked fine. I’ve made plenty of mistakes but they are fixable and it sure beats waiting for the videos. I’m learning that there’s more than one way to skin a cat!
Thanks for the info. I think I will plow ahead without the videos as well.
Hi Bob (and others building Oonagh). So glad to see others building this boat! My kit arrived Jan 26. I have the molds completed, glued up the keel today, will start fitting tomorrow. Will Continue gluing up all the remaining scarf joints. Then assembly really begins. I appreciate you taking the time to document your progress. Having fun here in the North Georgia mountains.
Welcome aboard!
Thanks for doing this, Bob. Great photos and notes. I’m at a standstill because I’m building the Oonagh in my unheated garage in Ohio and need warmer weather to tackle the planking. In the meantime, I’m researching options for making the spars. I started a blog as well (tomsboat.com) but your blog will be a big help to all of us!
Looking good! It’s not that hard, even without the videos. I found building the interior a bit more challenging than doing the hull which is a bit paradoxical because I’ve built a lot of furniture but never a boat.
Bob D – great progress. I am right behind you. Glued up both chine panels and have planed and sanded the bottom for the keel. I tried hand planing; too hard plus had screw heads to deal with. I then tried belt sander, too slow and too dusty. Finally broke down and used electric plane. Sacrificed a couple of planer blades, but it cut through the epoxy and silicon bronze like a champ. Got it done in 10 minutes.
An idea for attaching keel – screw it down from the inside of the boat. If someone can hold it down it in place for you, you can crawl under the boat, drill pilot holes and screw it down. Come back up and lay a nice epoxy fillet down each side of keel and it will be a thing of beauty!
I take it you are the only one who can post a picture into the blog?
I was able to use a ratchet strap to hold down the keel while working from stern forward. The hard part was the first screw.