4/6/21 – Still puzzling over how to hold both partitions in place while gluing. Using station #6 from the mold, I can hold 1 partition in exactly the right place. How to get the second partition to stay in the right place is a puzzle. I used the daggerboard trunk as a spacer, but the second partition was still wobbly on both ends.
I decided to glue up the one partition that is secured to station #6 and then tomorrow I can remove the mold and make some 1′ spacers to put between the partitions and clamp them together while I glue the second partition.
Tomorrow, the other partition.
4/7/21 – The partition at mold #6 is firmly in place and I can remove the mold. I then cut 3 pieces of 2×4 to exactly 12″ and used them as spacers between the two partitions.
Then I mixed up some more epoxy and finished up the other side of the #6 partition and both sides of the partition at #5.
Tomorrow I will start working on the daggerboard trunk.
4/8/21 – Decided to finish installing partitions before tackling the daggerboard trunk. The center seat partitions are done.
Next I worked on the forward partitions. I drew lines for each partition based on how far each was from station #2. I had to try several different methods to hold them in place and the simplest one was clamping a 2×4 to the side of the boat downhill of the partition. This allowed gravity to assist in keeping it in place and vertical.
I then epoxied them in place.
Next, I dry-fit the stern seat partitions.
Tomorrow I will check my measurements again and epoxy them in place as well.
4/9/21 – I spent the entire day working on the forward compartments. First, the seat was a bit oversized and needed to be beveled on the outside edges to fit snugly against the bow and sides.
Once this was fit across the two partitions, I could then determine where the forward support should be on the bow. I marked a line at the top of the seat and then subtracted 3/8″ for the seat thickness.
The bow seat support was pretty tricky because of all the weird angles. I finally got it beveled to the same angle as the other two-seat partitions and checked it with a straight edge across all three points. Then I secured it with screws.
Next was the support for the middle partition. This looks pretty straightforward, but looks are deceiving. I started with a 3/4″ X 1″ piece of mahogany. Each end has a double bevel to meet the sides of the boat. When I test fit it, the front edge was too high because the front seat is on an angle. I had to bevel the top side by 6 degrees, then the straight edge would lay flat across all three points.
Next, I started working on the side supports. Again a lot of compound angles. I fitted two of the pieces and then glued up everything I have done so far.
Tomorrow I will work on the other two supports toward the bow. That is going to be a challenge because they will cross the joint between the shear plank and the chine plank.
Lastly, I did some prep work on the daggerboard trunk. To make sure I install the trunk exactly perpendicular to the 3/4″ hole in the bottom, I inserted two 3/4″ scraps into the hole. Then I clamped the daggerboard trunk panels on each side, made sure the boards were completely vertical, and then marked where the two 3/4″ daggerboard supports will be installed.
Tomorrow, back to work on the forward seat supports.
4/10/21 – I epoxied the stern seat partitions into place.
I continued work on the bow seat supports. I completed the really tricky ones along the perimeter, but I still need to add one along the front edge of the partition and the seat hinge supports.
Test fitting the bow seats.
I then did some work on the daggerboard trunk. I installed the vertical supports and test-fit the trunk panels.
And the daggerboard fits! Yeah.
It’s starting to look like progress.
Still a fair amount of work to do on the seat supports.
4/11/21 – Video #13 came out today showing how to use the molds to set up the vertical partitions. Kit’s method seems foolproof and a much easier way to level the boat than my method. But since I’m done with that part, it’s time to move on and finish the seat supports and seats.
I spent the afternoon milling the 4 – 1/2″ inwale pieces and the various seat supports and daggerboard parts from a solid block of mahogany.
The 13′ long piece of mahogany was much heavier than my table saw and stand and you can see from the video the weight of the wood was trying to tip over the saw.
In the end, I was able to get the pieces I need to finish up the seats, daggerboard trunk, and inwales.
Tomorrow, back to work on the seat supports.
Bonus picture: Scott Berger emailed me a picture of his boat with the quote: “I launched my boat yesterday. She sails like a dream in light air.”
I can’t wait to finish mine. Today was a beautiful day for sailing.
4/12/21 – Still working on the bow seats & supports. The mast partner is integral to the seat. It has to be inset into both partitions and the brace across the middle. I used my router to remove 1/2″ of material from all points that it touches. There is also a 6-degree slope to the cross brace or it won’t lay flat.
After the mast partner is fit, I was able to dry-fit the seat tops to determine where the hatches land and where to drill the hole in the covering panel.
Once I got the hatches in the right place, I was able to draw lines on the mast partner for where the covering panel goes. I then positioned the panel on top of the mast partner and used the hole in the partner to draw a corresponding mark on the panel, then cut it out with a 2 1/2″ hole saw.
The next step was to install the cross braces for the hatches. They support both the fixed seat and the hatches.
The last project of the day was to make the brace that goes under the front lip of the seats. It was a little tricky because it has cutouts for the two hatches that have a 1/2″ lip that fits into the cutout.
The bow is almost complete. Only have to make two lips for the hatches and the Mast Step, and then I can glue everything up.
4/13/21 – Finished the overhang on the two hatches. Nothing is glued yet because I ran out of adhesive thickener. New orders should arrive today.
Next, I decided to start working on the seat supports for the stern compartments. Starting with the rear support.
I didn’t take too many pictures today. I was too busy figuring out all the weird angles for almost every piece. Here is where I left off today. All the pieces were cut except for the front edge support and the overhang on the seat. Nothing is glued yet until I get my delivery.
The two supports on the side may have to be glued only because the plywood is too thin to get a good bite screwing from the inside and screwing from the outside will be difficult because the edge of the guard is right where the screws would go. Epoxy should hold it.
4/14/21 – My order of epoxy and thickener arrived last night from Jamestown Distributors. Finished gluing & screwing the bow compartment supports, including the mast partner.
Back to work on the stern compartment supports. The two supports that are attached to the exterior hull were fairly difficult to install. Short pieces of wood don’t bend quite as easily as longer pieces and these were no exception. It took a fair amount of force to bend them to meet the hull and I don’t have clamps big enough to reach. The interior bulkheads are only 1/4″ thick and too flimsy to push against, so I put in temporary support all the way across the boat to push the two pieces against each other.
Once they were bent in place I was able to fit a single screw in the middle from the outside to hold it in the bent position.
Then I had to take it all apart and glue & screw it all over again. The result of today’s work.
Tomorrow, start working on the daggerboard trunk and center compartment supports.
4/15/21 – Sanded yesterday’s epoxy, checked with a level that both the bow and stern seats lay perfectly flat.
Then I started working on the daggerboard trunk.
Then a test fit before gluing them up.
Then I mixed some epoxy and glued the daggerboard supports.
Then I glued the daggerboard trunk pieces.
Because the daggerboard trunk is going to be wet whenever the boat is in the water, I need to make sure it is completely impregnated with epoxy. It may take me several days to fill the screw holes and apply at least two coats of epoxy to the inside of the trunk before gluing everything together. Meanwhile, I will keep working on the center seat supports and clean up the interior of the compartments for priming.
4/16/21 – This morning I mixed up some 105 resin with the 207 hardener and rolled a coat of epoxy on the underside of all the seat panels.
I spent the rest of the day cutting and fitting the center seat supports. These are all dry fit. I still have to make the cutouts for the hatch overhangs.
I finished up today putting a coat of epoxy on the daggerboard trunk.
And filling the screw holes that will be inside the trunk. I need to fill those holes before I can start applying two coats of epoxy on the inside face.
Tomorrow, sand the screw holes and put on the first coat of epoxy, then finish the cutouts for the hatches. Then I will be able to glue up the center seat section.
4/17/21 – Sanded the screw holes on the daggerboard trunk sides.
Then I applied a coat of epoxy.
Then I started working on the center seat supports. I have to make cutouts for the overhangs on the seats.
The finished product installed on the front of the center seat.
Then I started working on the 1/2″ x 1/2″ overhangs that go on the hatches. They were a little tricky to get so they are flush with the seat support cutout without binding on the edge of the partition. In the end, I trimmed a fraction off the inside of each rail to keep it from binding, but still line up correctly.
I ended the day by putting a coat of epoxy on the daggerboard trunk supports and inside the hole through the keel.
I had some leftover epoxy so I added the required fiberglass to the joint between the bottom plank and the chine plank in the bow watertight compartment.
I still need to add the fiberglass to the rest of the boat.
4/18/21 – Today, I added the fiberglass to the chine/bottom plank joints.
I used the 105 resin with the 207 clear hardener so I would have more working time with the epoxy. I finished all the chine/bottom joints. I wonder if I should add the fiberglass to the chine/topside plank joints as well. It would mean a lot more fairing and sanding.
Next, I finished up putting the overhangs on all the hatches.
I still have to glue up the center seat supports. I plan to wait until I am ready to install the daggerboard trunk permanently. Here is the current state of the boat.
Still left to do: 1. Make and install knees and inwales; 2. Make the top support for the daggerboard; 3. make and install the mast step; 4. Sand and prime the interior; 5. Paint the interior compartments before epoxying the permanent horizontal parts; 6. Prime the rest of the interior; 6. Sand and paint the interior; etc., etc.
Well done Bob. Am following you and Kit’s videos at the same time. You complement each other. I just picked up my kit Friday and stripped the pallet to get started. I am building my own sawhorses: how high and how wide are the ones we see in your videos. Also, where did you get those nice corner clamps? Keep up the good work.
Snow finally gone in Northeastern Canada.
Kit always has tips that I wish I had thought of, but this is my first boat and I’m just trying to figure it out from the plans. I advise using Kit’s way. 🙂 The dimensions for my sawhorses were taken off the plans. I’ve had the corner clamps for about 20 years.
Thanks for your reply.
I certainly like Kit’s lectures but your photographs are much better. It’s my first foray into boatbuilding also.
I will look for corner clamps on Amazon.
Keep up the good work..