3/2/21 – While waiting for the Dynel to be delivered, I decided to start work on the rudder and daggerboard. The first step is to draw the grid from the plans onto the rudder. Then draw in the extent of the taper.
I then planed and sanded the rudder into a foil shape.
Tomorrow I will do some final sanding and then glue up the cheeks.
3/3/21 – Today I did some additional sanding on the rudder and also sanded the daggerboard.
Tomorrow I will glue up the cheeks on the rudder.
3/4/21 – Glued up the rudder cheeks.
3/6/21 – Removed the clamps and did a rough sanding on the rudder.
Hi Bob- Lou Kimball here, Harpswell Maine. I’m right with you, got my Dynel, ordered some MAS low viscosity epoxy yesterday from Jamestown Distributors after reading that it is easier to work with than the standard West 105. Are you going to go with the dry method or wet method? Louis Sauzedde explains the wet method here- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WdaPecHY4VQ I do not have anyone to help, so was considering the dry method, which I guess is just laying the fabric out on the boat, taping down the edges, and pouring on the epoxy, squeezing it out as you go. Have you started? Any pointers? GREAT JOB WITH THE BLOG! You gave me the courage to go ahed and cut the centerboard slot!
I am also doing it solo. My Dynel arrived last night, so I’m going to get started today. It’s cold and blowing outside and my garage is only about 60 degrees, but I’m tired of waiting. I am going to use the Russell Brown method (https://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/mastering-epoxy-russell-brown-part-7-fiberglass-outside-hull/). I saw the Louis Sauzedde video and thought it was too complicated and messy. In the Oonagh video overview #2, Kit is using the dry method. Russell Brown also says you need to do a second fill coat the same day to get good bonding. I advise looking at his entire series on epoxy.
Thanks for the Dynel tips and link Bob! I’m in Maine, but I heat my garage to 60 when I’m doing epoxy work. Can’t afford to do it all the time. Lou