Dynel

3/5/21 – Last night I received my 4 yards of Dynel from Jamestown Distributors. It just took a few days for the reorder. The 4 yards cover the length completely with just a few inches of the chines exposed on the sides and that part will be beveled for the topside plank.

Stern view.
Bow view.

I mixed up 10 ounce batches of 105 resin with 207 hardner. The 207 is slower to cure and is less viscous, so spreads more easily. It took a lot more epoxy than I imagined it would, probably because the wood is soaking it up. In the end I made 7 batches totaling 70 ozs of epoxy to cover the bottom.

3/4 complete.

I used a foam roller with a short nap, but I should have cut the roller to a smaller size. It would have made rolling easier.

The white spots are not air bubbles, they are places where I used the fairing filler.

I then cut the Dynel covering the centerboard slot and wrapped the ends into the opening.

Next step, wait a couple of hours and apply the fill coat.

4:00 pm – After about 2 1/2 hours the clear coat epoxy was very tacky and ready to apply the fill coat. Russell Brown recommended using a standard paint roller to apply the fill coat as quickly as possible and use that roller to make sure that coat is as even as possible. Then use a foam roller to smooth out the epoxy fill coat.

I used West Systems 105 resin mixed with 207 hardner to make a 6-oz batch. After mixing for 1 minute, I added 3 oz. of 410 fairing filler. This makes a mixture about the consistency of a thick paint. It took 4 batches to cover the whole boat.

After applying the fill coat I used a razor knife to cut off the excess fabric from the lower part of the chine plank. That part will be planed off later when I apply the topside planks.

Fill coat applied.

Maybe tomorrow I will be able to install the outer keel permenantly.

3/6/21 – Sanded fill coat.

Re-installed the outer keel. The bottom is probably going to require another fill coat, so I will hold off epoxying it in place.

Centerboard slot.

Looks like some additional fill coating will be required because the weave in the fabric is still noticable. I may start working on beveling for the topside planks and come back to sanding the bottom later.

2 comments

  1. Great progress! Looks awesome. Amazing it took so much epoxy. Once you put on a couple of coats of anti-fouling paint, will the bit of weave still showing be an issue? I think I’d skip another coat of epoxy.

    1. I’m going to give another good sanding and then the primer and final coat should be sufficient.

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